Visitez Luang Prabang, et le reste du Laos

The legend of Buddha's birth

Benolaos — 2012-06-19T01:07:39Z

His father, Suddhodona was the King of the Sakya clan (he was probably only Rajah, or landowner of the warrior class) having married Queen Maya, very wise and virtuous who stayed pure even during the beginning of her marriage. One day she had a dream : she saw, without feeling the slightest pain, a small white elephant with 6 tusks penetrate her flank ; the birth took place 10 months after the premonitory dream. The child was born in a grove in the Lumbini park in the shade of a fig tree, and it was Brahmâ himself who received the child, already full of science and memories of his past lives.

Legend has it, that at that exact moment; nature went mad : budding flowers opened all of a sudden, heavenly music sounded in everybody's ears ... The child arose, looked around and then took 7 paces in the direction of the 4 cardinal points, and so he reached the summit of the world. The wiseman, Asita, ‘felt' this extraordinary event from the back lands of his Himalayan sanctum and came to bow before the child who bore on his body, the 32 marks of his glory to come : his skull had an outgrowth, had a wide brow that was joined between his two eyebrows, he had earlobes 3 times longer than normal, under the soles of his feet, a wheel with a thousand rays, was drawn ...

The child was extremely talented from birth, learned to walk and speak very quickly and rapidly showed proof of a remarkable intelligence. He learnt the traditional teachings of Veda, was intiated to the rites and the magic, was introduced to literature and astronomy.

From the soothsayers leaning over his crib, his father learnt that Siddharta would have an incredible destiny; that he would become either a powerful King, or a wiseman, the most perfect example of those who practised self-denial ... Even though Suddhodana was pious, he would have preferred, by far, that his son follow up his own career. That is why, he surrounded him with luxury and beauty, forbidding that anything sad or depressing should spoil, even for an instant, the life of the young, spoilt prince ; even the sight of a wilted rose was forbidden, so great was the King's fear, that his son turn towards anything spiritual and compassionate.

However, as a teenager, Siddharta discovers the 4 plagues of Man during 4 walks ....

Rules to respect during the morning alms

Benolaos — 2012-06-19T01:06:10Z

The morning collection of the bonzes (in Lao : Tak bat) is an animated tradition for the population of Luang Prabang. It has become an important tourist attraction because of its beauty. However, when tourists don't know the customs, their clumsiness can disrupt this ceremony. We would like to draw your attention to this religious observation which has a great meaning to the inhabitants of Luang Prabang.

How to respect the Tak Bat

Observe in silence and only make offerings if, for you, they correspond to a religious step that you can take with dignity.
Buy your rice in the market, preferably early in the morning rather than with the stallholders on the path of the bonzes.
Remove your shoes to give your offerings; women must stay on their knees and ideally wear a scarf over her shoulders.
If you're not making an offering, stay at a distance, in a respectful manner. Don't hamper the procession of bonzes and the donations of the faithful.
Make sure you are decently dressed, with your shoulders, body and legs well covered, especially if you are giving any offerings.
Don't take photos of the bonzes from too near; the flashes are most disturbing both for the bonzes and the faithful.
Avoid any physical contact with the bonzes.
Never position yourself so that you are in a higher position than the bonzes (on a wall or on steps, for example) its very disrespectful : the bonzes must always be on the highest points.
Large buses are strictly forbidden in the protected area of the World Heritage, and create serious problems. Don't follow the procession by bus. You again risk being higher than the bonzes, which in Laos is a lack of respect.

Participate in the ceremony for the bonzes quest, by protecting its dignity and its beauty. The population and the authorities of Luang Prabang thank you in advance for your cooperation.

Normally, make sure you're dressed in town, but especially in the temples, making sure that you do not show your knees or shoulders, and especially anything in between.

To bow (even slightly) in front of the bonzes is recommended, and appreciated. It's a mark of respect followed by all Laotians, a tradition to which you must conform.

Women must absolutely not touch the bonzes. Men may, even though physical contact is unseemly.

Buddhism at Luang Prabang

Benolaos — 2012-06-19T01:04:08Z

Buddhism, which is participated in, by most Laotians, gives a rhythm to their life as from first thing in the morning. Daytime, as we say here, starts in the evening with the preparation of sticky rice that will serve as a basis for the morning collections. This rice needs a long preparation as several hours are needed before it becomes edible. (Before being cooked, it must be carefully cleaned, by hand, of its impurities, then it must ‘rest' for about 6 hours in water, before being cooked at around 5 to half past 5 in the morning).

In Luang Prabang more than anywhere else in Laos, the inhabitants get up to participate in this ritual, which enables hundreds of bonzes to eat (they are only allowed to eat what is given to them). Every day of the year, everybody must be ready at sunrise (7 o'clock in winter, 5 o'clock in summer), women on their knees and men often standing, everybody shoeless, to give their donation (most of the time rice that is still hot) to each of the bonzes that pass in front of them.

Its customary that the bonzes all come out at the same time, the most revered monk of the temple at the head of his procession. They are more than a thousand in this small town of only 50000 people. The day is only just rising, the morning mist is clearing little by little and the bonzes enter the town, going through the town during the first half hour of the day to collect, what will represent their two daily meals, all dressed with three pieces of different yellow material as was worn by the Supreme Buddha for nearly 2500 years.

Holidays are numerous, as there are numerous faiths and numerous cults to be respected, spirits and ancestors to be honoured. Every 28 days, its the full moon (Van Sin), a very important day because its a holiday (nobody works that day, and if anybody works, they are absolutely forbidden to make a noise) ; on these occasions, many more devout people come to offer not only rice this time, but also sweets, cakes and even money (which has become necessary now for the bonzes who have a portable telephone). Laughs and smiles are good for one's karma and Laotians are never short of an opportunity to share them.

Being very religious, these Buddhists often go to pray at the temple, and leave some offerings. A few balls of sticky rice, which is a rite left over from their animist cult, on the small ‘stupas' where the ashes of their ancestors lie, or on the statues of Buddha which could bring luck.

In this part of the world, Luang Prabang is an important spiritual symbol for all Buddhists and especially for Therravada Buddhism, because of its history and its legends, but also because the town has always been the centre for religious culture; the town's richness enables it to take on the responsibility of many pagodas housing many bonzes. There are many pagodas that collapsed in 1900 and have not been rebuilt since, but there are also many new ones which villages that are "rich" with parents having succeeded abroad, can offer themselves.

There's a special silent and calm atmosphere here, appropriate for meditation. Its often said that Buddhism is a philosophy and not a religion. Particularly at Luang Prabang, its a way of life, a social rule, a standard for living, and a religion, being as it can be said that Buddha has been uplifted to the rank of God, even if he himself denied his existence.

For those who would like to participate in this ritual, it is essential to know (and to conform to) the rules of conduct.

The different paths of Buddhism

Benolaos — 2012-06-19T01:00:40Z

Laos is mainly Buddhist with a Theravada or small vehicle tendency (over 60% of the population). Buddhism, like Christianity, hides numerous splits and ruptures which date from the death of Buddha. One of the main controversies concerns intermediary existence : some people think that its a short twilit life separating death from rebirth; whereas others refuse this idea. Still others think that we still have a voice after death, whereas others again think that the five organs cease to exist...

We don't need to name here all the schools and sects acknowledged in Buddhism. The following lines are just to show that there are many divergences behind the word Buddhism, there are many currents...

Theravada or Petit Vehicle

Theravada, was initiated by Emperor Ashoka ("The Pious", "Loved by the Gods") by the creation of the “Teaching of the Elders” or Theravadin, and is considered as the original form of Buddhism. The particularity of this branch is that it only takes as fundamental standards, the first Buddhist writings, dating from the beginning of our era, not, all the older writings, like the Mahayana. Theravada is widespread in S.E. Asia (which is also called the School of the South ...) especially in Cambodia, Thailand, Laos, Burma, Sri Lanka.

In Laos, Theravada became the religion of Kings as from the 14th century, when the Emperor Fa Ngum came to the throne. He had been converted very young by the Khmers of Cambodia. It was only in the XVIth century that it was installed as a state religion by Phothisarat, who forbid animism and any other spiritual worship as from then.

In Laos, spirit worship is still present in Laotian everyday life. The "Phi" are everywhere, and represent the surroundings in which Laotians live, guiding or punishing them. Laotian Buddhism doesn't contradict their existence, but insists that they not be made objects of worship.

Mahayana or Great Vehicle

This represents the main school of Buddhism. At the beginning of our era, the Great Vehicle appeared and set itself up as a system under the influence of Nagarjuna. For the founder of the Madhyamaka School, or Middle Way, the whole universe is “empty” and without substance.

One of the main points of this teaching is the idea of Universal Emptiness and the latent Buddhism in every man who carries inside him a germ of perfection.

Tantrism

This comes from Mahayana, but its mystic and irrational character makes it almost inaccessible by occidentals. Apparently it started, in India in the third century of our era, when old magical beliefs, even older than Buddhism were still practiced.

The great novelty of Tantrism is to confirm that passions are not bad in themselves and that it is not necessary to get rid of them by force but to use them and to redirect their energy; in this way transforming them into virtues.

Meditation techniques are very original in comparison to the classical ones. By creating mandalas, Yoga breathing techniques and meditation based on the principle of the correspondence between sounds, colours, syllables and forms; tantrism has created a path called the Diamond Way or Thunderbolt Way.

Another peculiarity of tantrism is to find again women, which Buddhism (unlike Hinduism) had not quite removed, but had given a minor role. Women again becomes sublime and unchanging, in which everything is born, dies and comes back to life, a strength that works, breeds and spiritually nourishes the origin.

Zen

Originating from China, this Buddhist school was widespread in Japan in the XIIth century. It favours the teachings of the Master to the pupil and only grants a minimal importance to writings and beliefs. Illumination is supposedly promoted by meditation techniques. Certain schools (Satori) stress the importance of Koan (short sayings, which may appear mysterious and which call on mental facilities so as to surpass one's intellectual reasoning which would lead us to the Awakening). The sound of two hands clapping and the blows given by masters to help the followers attain illumination, whilst others prefer mediation, sitting calmly to encourage the illumination (Zazen).

The life of the Supreme Buddha

Benolaos — 2012-06-19T00:58:41Z

According to the Buddhist calendar, which is still used in many countries, including Laos, Buddha's birth goes back 543 years before J.C. Historians are unanimous as to the real existence of a man, Gautama (also called Siddhârta or Sakyamuni) who dedicated his life to the research for a transcendence or superiority, repudiating spirits and Gods.

He even went as far as to go against the principles of destiny and of divine judgement. He wanted to put man's body and soul in his own hands, at a time when, not only was there the impact of classes over men's lives, but when he, because of his birth, could have benefited from all the advantages due to him by his blood.

Siddhârta was born in Kapilavastu (or Lumbini, as it is now thought, see the article about his birth), to the north of what is now called Benares (town situated in the north of India, on the Indian side of the Himalayas), in the realm of Maghada where Brahmanism or Hinduism was predominant.

Fantastic legends surround the birth of the child who received the name of Siddhârta, or "He Who Reached His Goal". Born to a Raja family of the Sakya clan, he passed a particularly quiet and peaceful childhood and was destined to follow his father. Even though he was pampered and over protected, as much by his mother (Maya) as by his father (Suddhodana), Siddhârta wasn't happy, and as he grew up he felt a great anguish for the fragility of life, bitterness for everything that died.

At the age of 17, he married his young and very pretty cousin Yashodara, daughter of the Prince of a neighbouring country. At that time, the future Buddha discovered the 4 plagues of man (apparently during 4 walks around the palace) : illness, old age, death and poverty. The main idea of Buddhism ; "find a way to leave human sufferance behind" came to mind and never left him.

Siddhârta was 29 years old, and his wife had just given him a son, Rahula. Was it this birth, that brought him the confirmation, that this was a new "chain" holding him to this existence, woven with sufferance and death, that he so much wanted to end? He decided to leave and wandered the valley of the Ganges for 7 years, meeting several Masters, and disciplining himself to practice Samadhi (meditation).

His reputation of wisdom and his rigorous self-mortification caused 5 disciples to follow him like a Master. This is how, he who was now being called Sakyamuni, or "the Silent Monk of Sakya", continued on his way, listening a lot, torturing his body with inhuman abstinence, sleeping on thorns, fasting to extreme limits, trying all the tortures of himself that were possible so as to be no more than a spirit looking for total concentration, delivered from human uncertainty.

It was at that time, when he was broken by his forced diet, exhausted and with no strength left, that he suddenly realised that, this was not the path to deliverance. No more than was the luxurious life that he had led at the palace. A life of instability and terrible abstinence was not satisfactory. So came the first revelation, the well-known "Middle Path".

Siddhârta acknowledged that excessive privations were taking him nowhere and realised that he had to satisfy his elementary needs. He started to eat again, sparingly... losing the aura that he'd had with his disciples, who immediately deserted him. Siddhârta was now alone, forlorn ... a temptation (by the demon Mara, who sent girls to seduce Buddha) was then put before him under the Bodhi tree, a temptation that he overcame. An awakening occurred, giving way to 7 days of ecstasy according to tradition; Sakyamuni then discovered the 4 truths.

He then left for Varanasi (Benares), where he pronounced his first sermon called "The Wheel of Dharma” to the original 5 disciples who had abandoned him . He gave them their first ordination : the first community of Buddhist monks is formed, the Sangha. As from then, the one they called "The Supreme Buddha" never stopped travelling through Asia, simply dressed with a yellow robe, shaven headed, begging for his bowl of rice, sleeping out in the open or under potter's sheds during the rain season ...

Buddha quickly had a following of numerous supporters, rich and poor, simple peasants, social outcasts and Kings. In his community, strict equality prevailed, the only recognized authority being seniority, castes didn't exist anymore. Sakyamuni was proposing a complete revolution ... There were even women's monasteries created at that time, which in those days was unthinkable.

During 40 years of travelling which took him from the foothills of the Himalayas to the banks of the Ganges River, Buddha came across numerous hostile religious sects, but, it is said, he remained the same to them all, whether they be friends or foes, he had no enemies ... He came across a traitor in the person of his cousin Devatta who dreamt of taking his place at the head of the community and who tried several times to assassinate him. He also had to support the almost complete disappearance of his family. The Sakya clan was completely wiped out because Bimbisara's son, who had his father assassinated so as to take his place, wanted to appease a personal vengeance and to do so, massacred the whole family, sparing neither women nor children.

The hour of death is coming nearer. For the last time he goes travelling. The stages are short because the Master is tired. He is surrounded by numerous disciples, one of which is the faithful Ananda. He crossed the Ganges, where later the town of Pataliputra (nowadays known as Patna) was built, and went on to Vanugrama where he nearly died, struck down by an attack of dysentery, to finally stop on the road to Kusinagara.

He was worn out. He lay down on his right side, his head pointing towards the North and his face turned towards the West. This is where he pronounced his last words : to a priest of another sect who insisted on seeing him. This priest was ordained (in spite of the 4 month rigorous period of initiation and training, that the Master insisted be done). This is a typical example of the task of interpreting the rules and the act of mind over matter, relying on man's qualities .... Then he went into meditation and passed from a trance to release.

He died at the age of 80, approximately 480 years before our era. According to Sanskrit tradition, this happened during the full moon in the month of Kârttika (November), or the month of Vaisâkha (April-May) like the Birth and the Awakening, according to the Pali tradition. His body was burnt, according to custom, and he was given royal honours.

Principles of Buddhism

Benolaos — 2012-06-19T00:56:09Z

Buddhism started in India around 500 years before our era, more or less at the same time as Pythagore.

This philosophy of life was first revealed by the words of a man of noble origin (the son of a King or a Rajah) who devoted his life to finding the remedy for all men's hardships and tribulations, found it, and gave it to them. So, it was a man and not a prophet who started this religion with no God, nor spirits and with no casts or classes. A very influential and philosophic way of thinking in the Middle-East and Asia; a belief for which, for once, no wars or crusades ever took place.

This doctrine was transmitted for a long time only by word of mouth before being written down, several centuries after Buddha's death, in the texts of the Canons, divided into three “domains” (discipline, speech, dogmatic)

The Middle Voice

This is the first of Buddha's revelations, so called, because it teaches us not to go to extremes, one being the quest for happiness (dependency on sensual pleasure, which is qualified by the Master as "vulgar"). The other is placed under the sign of humiliation (that which is "painful, undignified and has no gain").

Buddha experimented with both states, the first in his lavish youth, the other, during the long austere wanderings, before his Awakening. Neither one, nor the other, answered his quest for suspension of pain.

The 4 truths

The main reason behind the word of Buddha is the worldliness of Duhkha (imperfectly translated as ‘pain', and which signifies sufferance, grief or even misery), this is shown in the 4 Noble Truths :

"the noble truth that is suffering"
"the noble truth that is the arising of suffering"
"the noble truth that is the end of suffering"
"the noble truth that is the way leading to the end of suffering"

The 5 aggregates (or composites) of the Bond

Their sum, making up the whole, are the origins of Duhkha, notion which implies hardship and disquietude :

The Matter aggregate, which corresponds to the 5 sensorial organs that are : the eye, the ear, the nose, the tongue, the body;

The Feeling aggregate, which includes all the pleasant, unpleasant and neutral feelings that man feels with his physical and mental contacts with the outside world;

The Perception aggregate, which represents perceptions capable of recognizing physical and mental objects ;

The Mental Format aggregate, which comprises all voluntary acts, whether good or bad, better known under the name of Karma. There exists 52 mental activities ;

The Conscience aggregate, which represents the act of taking notice of an object ;

Karma

The notion of Karma was already present in the sacred writings of Hinduism in India. Buddha gave it an actual form and appearance. It is the sum of all beliefs and actions, (being as beliefs are actions) both good and bad.

Our lives are only one part of an uninterrupted chain from the beginning of time. Our physical and psychological bodies are only a combination of aggregates, which hide, in their apparent unity, a multitude of life cells, which live and die continuously. In the same way, the entity of this moment, is not the same as the one that it will be in an hour's time ... the body dissolves little by little until death.

What becomes of mental energies, which are in themselves not permanent ? They will try and take another form, find another combination of aggregates. This is nothing to do with the idea of reincarnation that we normally have, but more a tremendous energy that continues to manifest itself and which moves the world.

A Buddhist needs to make his karma beneficial by good acts for his actual and future life, being as he is never sure whether he will ever "finish" with this chain of movement.

Nirvana

This is the state of being free from suffering, as told in the 3rd of the 4 truths pronounced by Buddha. When the thirst for life (source of desire and pain) has been quenched, then there is Nirvana. It is difficult to exactly describe the state of Nirvana. Buddha himself, often used negative expressions like : "non-being", "non-composed", "ceasing", "quenching of thirst, desire, hate, illusion"...

Contrary to most religions that impose a Life after Death, Nirvana can be reached in one simple life. He who reaches Nirvana is free and happy. He lives for the moment without any anguish, he has no more selfish needs, and can enjoy the pleasures of life serenely without being bothered by his "ego", an ego that doesn't exist any more. He keeps nothing for himself and is nothing but compassion, tenderness and bounty for others ... He has reached the Ultimate Truth. He who has reached Nirvana is a saint, an Arhant, and at his death will reach the Parinirvana, or final awakening.

The Noble Eightfold Path

It leads all disciples to the end of suffering, for those who endeavour to follow its directives. The 8 branches of this path must of course, be undertaken simultaneously. They can be followed in everyday life, you don't need to give up everything to pursue them :

Viewing reality as it is ;
Correct way of thinking ;
Speaking in a truthful and non harmful way ;
Acting in a non harmful way ;
Non harmful livelihood ;
Correct effort ;
Awareness ;
Correct meditation or concentration.